(Everthing has been sold--thanks for your interest.)

Logan/Powermatic 11x24 lathe

Logan lathes are comparable to South Bend in quality, weight, stiffness, etc.  They are a little more modern in that they have pre-loaded ball-bearing headstocks and a slicker back-gear arrangement.  They are a significant step up from Atlas/Craftsman or the import fare.  Powermatic (who makes high quality wood working machinery) bought Logan in the early '70s and continued to produce essentially the same lathe for a few decades, and almost all parts are interchangeable. 
Parts are readily available on eBay or from Logan ActuatorSee http://www.lathes.co.uk or the archives of rec.crafts.metalworking for evaluations from others. 

This lathe has an 11" swing, 24" between centers, and has powered longitudinal and cross feeds. 

The main spindle is driven by a Reliance Minpak Plus variable speed DC regenerative drive (for spindle braking/decel).  This drive retails for about $1500.  115V input (or convertible to 230V), powering a ~2.0HP DC motor.  25rpm to ~1500rpm (calculated).  Double-isolated mounting.  Rugged electronics and easy to change settings (and manual is included).  Very smooth drive. 

2 1/4" – 8 spindle  w/ 1 3/8" hole thru spindle (takes 5C collets)New headstock bearings, new Poly-Vee belt.  Back gears operation is smooth, quiet, and all teeth are in EC. 

Thoroughly cleaned, gibs re-lapped, mostly disassembled and carefully painted metallic green with a top coat of clear polyurethane.  It’s not Imron (not about to put my health at risk), but is reasonably durable and looks great.  

A dial indicator on the bed shows 0.002" of wear along its length (it came from a school), but there are a number of dings on the bed (it came from a school).  The 0.002” wear is more even than not over most of the bed (no headstock “dip”).  Most used lathes have .010"-.030" of wear, so .002" is almost nothing. 

Quick-change included, but one of the handles needs to be bored out for a new bearing insert—the handle shaft ovaled it out.  Or you could try JBW first.  I have enough of the gears to do basic threading needs (8tpi to 24tpi or so).  I have a set of half-nuts, but they are almost worn through and either need replacing or the babbitt trick.   It's not a hard repair; I'm just out of time and don't really need it, because...

The leadscrew is powered by a 1/4 HP DC motor, Dayton variable speed drive, and Boston Gear speed reducer.  This controls feeds for turning, like a Hardinge or Monarch.  Smooth drive, loads of torque, adjusts with the turn of a knob, and change speeds on the fly -- a super-quick-change.   Every lathe should have one of these, IMO. 

New cross-slide leadscrew fabricated using high-precision ACME rod and a high-precision bronze nut, and a Martin gear.  Backlash is only 0.015" and could probably be reduced even more w/ a thrust bearing next to the handle.

Tailstock is from an 11” Logan (#2MT, more travel than the stock tailstock).  Quill is smooth and tight.  Live and dead centers, Jacobs chuck. 

Brand new Bison 3 jaw 8” chuck (2 piece reversible jaws), smooth scroll and in perfect condition, with 8” Bison threaded backplate (new, unmodified).  Faceplate.  Whiton 10” 4 jaw chuck, jaws in EC, mounted.  I like big chucks since I usually "run out of chuck" before running out of swing.  (Yep, they fit fine, and the added weight is small compared to the cutting forces).

Phase II 100 series QCTP set w/ the usual toolholders, cutting bits/blade (most new), and 9” APT (USA) boring bar for carbide inserts. 

Custom high-stiffness stand:  4” square tubing for the main beams and 2” square for the rest.  Rough calcs show the 4x4 tubes have about 6x to 8x more torsional stiffness than the bed, to minimize chatter and ensure alignment.  For dampening, the 4” tubes can easily be filled w/ sand.  Footprint is 42”x22” and I made the spindle a little higher than usual to save the back, measures 46” CL to floor.   The stand is extremely stiff but not very heavy, so transport should not be difficult.  In fact, the whole lathe easily breaks down into pieces; the heaviest single item is the bed at around 120 lbs. 

See My Projects page for more details on the process. 

I’m guessing I’ve put about 500 hours into the lathe, so would like it to go to a good home.   

The rest of the shop:

Brazing-Cutting Torch w/ Tanks

Victor oxy-mapp (propylene) brazing-cutting torch w/ tanks, custom cart, extra brazing tips, rod, flux, etc (pics don't show all the accessories).   Propylene is much safer than acetylene, less expensive, and cuts better (do a search on rec.crafts.metalworking for more about propylene vs. acetylene).  6 lb propylene cylinder, 80cuft oxy.  Papers included for the tanks. Cart is very compact for storage, but rolls around easily.  Less than a year old. Low use. EC+. 

Mother-lode of Endmills

~170 endmills in custom wood chest w/ 4 drawers.  From the machine shop of a local factory that closed.  Mostly USA: Putnam, DoAll, TRW.  Huge variety, all sizes, full set of corner-rounding bits. Some freshly resharpened, most EC.  Probably $2000+ new.  $150 

4x6 Metal Cutting Bandsaw

4x6” horizontal metal cutting bandsaw, ~older Sears model, made in Taiwan (not China) and works great.  Includes Morse Bimetal blade, wax, hydraulic cylinder (unmounted), and stand w/ casters.  Great saw.  $130